Not too long ago, Cambodia was a no-go zone for serious big bike touring. We’re talking about a country where decades of conflict and neglect had left the roads in absolutely shocking condition. If you wanted to explore the Kingdom of Cambodia back then, you’d better have been riding something lightweight and knobby-tired, because even the main arteries connecting major cities were little more than dirt tracks riddled with potholes that could swallow a small car.
Those days are history, mate. Cambodia has undergone one hell of a transformation, and now it’s become one of Southeast Asia’s most exciting destinations for big bike touring. The infrastructure revolution that’s swept through this beautiful country has opened up riding opportunities that would have been impossible just a decade ago.
The Road Revolution That Changed Everything
Cambodia is undergoing huge infrastructure upgrades with its roads, and you can expect to ride on smooth paved highways for most of the main routes, including the northeastern areas, which are now fully accessible by highways. What used to be impassable jungle tracks have been transformed into proper sealed highways that can handle everything from touring bikes to adventure machines loaded down with panniers.
The transformation hasn’t happened overnight, and it’s been funded largely through Chinese investment under the Belt and Road Initiative. By December 2020, China had reportedly funded more than 3,000 km of road construction in the Kingdom with more than USD 3 billion in concessional loans. This massive injection of infrastructure funding has literally paved the way for big bike touring across Cambodia.
The crown jewel of this road network is National Highway 6, the main artery connecting Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and onward to the Thai border. From Phnom Penh to the town of Skuon (73 km), where it connects with National Highway 7, the highway has been upgraded to dual carriageway and it bears the name of National Highway 6A. However, it’s worth noting that the worst roads are between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, as these see the most traffic and can be quite potholed and rough in places due to the heavy usage.
Riding Conditions: What to Expect
Today’s Cambodia offers a mixed bag of riding conditions that’ll keep any big bike tourer engaged. The main highways are generally excellent – wide, sealed, and well-maintained. You’ll find yourself cruising through landscapes that shift from rice paddies to jungle to urban sprawl without missing a beat.
But here’s where it gets interesting for adventure riders: rural roads account for about 75 percent of Cambodia’s road network and about 43,000km are unpaved roads. This means that while you can stick to the highways for easy touring, there’s an absolute goldmine of unpaved roads waiting for those who want to get off the beaten track.
The clearing of landmines has been crucial in opening up these rural routes. Where once entire regions were off-limits due to unexploded ordnance, now riders can explore remote villages and hidden temples that were inaccessible for decades.
Legal Requirements and Practicalities
Let’s get the boring stuff out of the way first. Motorbikes up to 125cc can be ridden legally without a license, however, check your travel insurance wording. Many insurers will require a license from the destination country or your home country. For anything above 125cc – which includes most big bikes used for touring – you’ll need proper documentation.
If you want to ride higher than 125cc, you can transfer your valid home license at the Dept. of Public Work and Transport outside Phnom Penh for a one-year Cambodian license. This process is straightforward but requires some planning if you’re bringing your own bike across the border.
Speaking of borders, crossing into Cambodia with your own motorcycle has become much more manageable. Original Greenbook, and copies of everything 3 times are typically required at Thai border crossings. The process can take a few hours, but it’s become increasingly routine as more riders discover Cambodia’s potential.
Angkor Wat: The Crown Jewel Accessible to Big Bikes
Here’s something that’ll make every rider’s heart race: you can actually take your big bike right up to Angkor Wat and the surrounding temple complex. You can take your foreign bike through to the temples despite whatever the security guards say. Some people might try and tell you that you need a tuk-tuk service, that’s rubbish and probably just because they’re trying to sell on their friend’s services.
The Angkor Archaeological Park isn’t just about the famous temple everyone recognizes from postcards. We’re talking about 162 hectares and is the largest religious monument in the world with dozens of temples scattered throughout the complex. Having your bike gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace, away from the tour bus crowds.
The temple complex represents over 400 years of Khmer civilization, with construction spanning from the 9th to 15th centuries. While Angkor Wat itself gets most of the attention, temples like Ta Prohm (where Tomb Raider was filmed) and Bayon with its mysterious carved faces are equally spectacular and much less crowded.
Beyond Angkor: Cambodia’s Hidden Riding Gems
Siem Reap might be the tourist magnet, but Cambodia’s real treasures for big bike touring lie beyond the temple complex. Head south to Kampot, a sleepy riverside town that’s become a base camp for some seriously good riding. The twisty mountain road was built for two wheels. The tarmac is fresh and smooth and the curves are perfect on the ride up to Bokor National Park.
The Cardamom Mountains offer some of the best adventure riding in Southeast Asia. These mountains, once inaccessible due to conflict, now feature a network of dirt roads that wind through pristine jungle to hidden waterfalls and remote villages. It’s here that you’ll find the Cambodia that existed before the tourist boom – villages where kids still wave excitedly at passing motorcycles because they’re still a novelty.
For riders seeking the truly remote, the northeastern provinces offer incredible opportunities. The roads to Preah Vihear temple, perched dramatically on the Thai border, take you through landscapes that feel completely untouched by modern development. This UNESCO listed Khmer Empire site contains an ancient staircase to the heavens, but getting there is half the adventure.
The Cultural Experience: More Than Just Riding
What sets Cambodia apart from other big bike touring destinations isn’t just the roads or the temples – it’s the people. Without a doubt one of our favourite things about Cambodia are the immensely friendly and welcoming locals. From the kids waving to us from the roadside, to the locals inviting us to their weddings, never a day goes by that we don’t feel extremely welcomed into their country.
The Khmer people have an infectious warmth that makes every stop an opportunity for connection. Pull up at a roadside stall for some lok lak or amok (Cambodia’s signature dishes), and you’ll likely find yourself in conversation with locals eager to share their stories and recommendations for hidden spots only they know about.
Cambodia’s tragic recent history – the Khmer Rouge period from 1975-1979 when approximately 2 million people lost their lives – is still very much part of the national consciousness. Visiting sites like the Killing Fields or S-21 prison in Phnom Penh provides sobering context that deepens your understanding of the country’s resilience and the warmth of its people.
Practical Considerations for Big Bike Touring
Cambodia’s tropical climate means year-round riding is possible, but timing matters. The dry season from November to March offers the best conditions, with cooler temperatures and minimal rainfall. The wet season isn’t necessarily off-limits for touring, but be prepared for afternoon downpours and potentially challenging conditions on unpaved roads.
Accommodation has exploded across the country to meet tourism demand. In major centers like Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, you’ll find everything from backpacker hostels to luxury resorts. In smaller towns and rural areas, guesthouses are basic but clean and incredibly affordable – often under $10 per night.
Fuel availability is excellent on main routes, with modern petrol stations every 50-100 kilometers. On remote roads, fuel can be purchased from roadside vendors who sell petrol in recycled bottles – just make sure to carry a funnel and be prepared for slightly questionable octane ratings.
Mechanical support varies dramatically by location. In major cities, you’ll find Honda and Yamaha dealerships with trained mechanics and genuine parts. In rural areas, local mechanics are incredibly resourceful but may not be familiar with more complex systems found on modern big bikes. Carrying basic tools and spare parts is always wise.
The Food Trail: Fueling Your Adventure
Cambodia’s cuisine deserves special mention for any touring rider. The country’s food scene combines influences from Thailand and Vietnam while maintaining its own distinct character. Street food is excellent, safe, and incredibly cheap – perfect for riders on a budget.
Must-try dishes include fish amok (coconut curry steamed in banana leaves), beef lok lak (stir-fried beef with tomatoes and onions), and num banh chok (rice noodle soup). For the adventurous, fried spiders and crickets are available at markets, though they’re more tourist novelty than local staple.
Fresh tropical fruits are abundant and perfect for staying hydrated on long riding days. Coconut water straight from the shell, sweet pineapples, and dragon fruit are available everywhere and cost pennies.
Safety and Security Considerations
Modern Cambodia is far safer than its reputation might suggest, but smart precautions are always wise. Police target foreigners regardless of whether they are riding legally or not, so expect occasional stops. Usually, these are minor shakedowns that can be resolved with a small payment ($2-5) if you prefer not to argue.
Traffic in cities can be chaotic by Western standards, but it follows its own logic. Cambodian drivers are generally courteous and will make room for motorcycles. The biggest dangers come from overloaded trucks on rural highways and the occasional water buffalo wandering onto the road.
Medical facilities in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap are adequate for most issues, but serious injuries would require evacuation to Bangkok. Comprehensive travel insurance with motorcycle coverage is essential.
Planning Your Cambodia Big Bike Adventure
Cambodia works brilliantly as a standalone destination or as part of a larger Southeast Asian tour. The country is small enough to see comprehensively in 2-3 weeks, but rich enough to reward much longer exploration.
Popular routes include the “temple circuit” connecting Siem Reap, Battambang, and Phnom Penh; the “coastal loop” taking in Kampot, Kep, and Sihanoukville; and the “adventure circuit” through the Cardamom Mountains and northeastern provinces.
Border crossings with Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos are all possible with proper documentation, making Cambodia an excellent hub for regional exploration. The most popular crossing is at Poipet on the Thai border, though smaller crossings often provide more relaxed experiences.
The Bottom Line
Cambodia represents one of big bike touring’s great success stories – a country that has transformed from nearly inaccessible to absolutely unmissable in just a couple of decades. The infrastructure is there, the roads are improving constantly, and the rewards for riders willing to explore are immense.
Sure, it’s not as developed as Thailand or as wild as Laos, but Cambodia offers something unique: a perfect balance of accessibility and adventure, of ancient wonders and modern improvements, of challenging riding and incredible hospitality.
Whether you’re drawn by the temples of Angkor, the adventure roads of the Cardamoms, or simply the infectious friendliness of the Khmer people, Cambodia deserves a prominent place on any serious big bike tourer’s bucket list. The trails that were once impassable have become pathways to one of Southeast Asia’s most rewarding riding experiences.
Pack your panniers, sort your paperwork, and get ready to discover why Cambodia has quietly become one of the region’s premier big bike touring destinations. The Kingdom of Cambodia is waiting, and the roads have never been better.