If northern Vietnam is where riders go for jaw-dropping mountain drama, central Vietnam is where the riding becomes more varied, more historically layered, and in many ways more accessible. The terrain ranges from coastal roads with ocean views to dense jungle highways to cool highland plateaus. The roads are generally in better condition than the north, the traffic is somewhat lighter outside the main cities, and the cultural stops along the way are world-class. Central Vietnam is also where most riders doing the full Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City traverse transition from mountain riding to a completely different rhythm.
The centrepiece of this region is the Hai Van Pass, and rightly so. But reducing central Vietnam to a single 21-kilometre stretch of road would be like visiting France and only seeing the Eiffel Tower. The Ho Chi Minh Highway, the Phong Nha cave systems, the ancient city of Hue, the lantern-lit streets of Hoi An, and the overlooked Central Highlands each offer something distinct. Together, they make central Vietnam a region that could fill two weeks of riding without repeating a road.
The Hai Van Pass
Let us get the famous bit out of the way first. The Hai Van Pass, which translates roughly to Pass of the Ocean Clouds, climbs over the Truong Son mountain range between Da Nang and Hue. It is 21 kilometres of ascending and descending switchbacks with views of Lan Co Bay, Da Nang Bay, and the coastline stretching in both directions. Since the Hai Van Tunnel opened beneath the mountain in 2005, the bulk of commercial traffic bypasses the old pass road entirely. What remains is a beautifully maintained stretch of tarmac that feels purpose-built for motorcycles.
The riding itself is accessible. The road surface is good asphalt with clear markings. Gradients are moderate. Blind corners exist but are not as tight as typical northern mountain passes. A competent rider on any bike from an XR150L upward can ride the pass comfortably. What makes it special is the scenery, the sweeping curves, and the fact that you can ride it in both directions to experience the different views.
The northern approach from Hue is the more dramatic side, with the road climbing steeply from the coastal plain through increasingly dense vegetation before breaking above the cloud layer. The summit area has the remains of French colonial and Vietnamese military bunkers, and the views on a clear day extend to both cities. The southern descent toward Da Nang is more gradual, with longer sightlines and smoother curves.
Most riders staying in either Hue or Da Nang ride the pass as a day trip, sometimes multiple times. If you are transiting through, factor in at least two to three hours to ride the pass at a pace that allows for photo stops and appreciation of the views. Early morning offers the best light and lightest traffic.
Hue: The Imperial Pause
Hue is worth more than a quick overnight between riding days. The former imperial capital of Vietnam from 1802 to 1945 sits on the banks of the Perfume River, and the walled citadel complex that housed the Nguyen Dynasty remains one of the most significant historical sites in the country. Much of the citadel was destroyed during the Battle of Hue in 1968, one of the bloodiest engagements of the war, but extensive restoration work has brought large sections back to a state that conveys the scale and ambition of the original.
Outside the citadel, Hue offers the Thien Mu Pagoda, the royal tombs scattered through the hills south of the city, and a food culture that stands apart from the rest of Vietnam. Hue cuisine is more refined and complex than the northern or southern traditions, with dishes like bun bo Hue (spicy beef noodle soup), banh khoai (crispy crepes), and nem lui (lemongrass pork skewers) that you simply cannot get elsewhere.
For riders, Hue also works as a base for exploring the surrounding countryside by motorcycle. The roads south toward the royal tombs wind through pleasant hilly terrain. The coastal road east of the city leads to quiet fishing villages. And the Ho Chi Minh Highway section north of Hue provides a taste of the mountain riding that defines the route further south.
The Ho Chi Minh Highway
The Ho Chi Minh Highway, designated as National Route 15 and later incorporated into the broader AH16 network, runs roughly parallel to the coastal Highway 1 through the Truong Son mountain range. Do not confuse it with the historical Ho Chi Minh Trail, which was a network of paths and roads running primarily through Laos and Cambodia that served as the North Vietnamese supply route during the war. The modern highway follows a different alignment, though it passes through some of the same territory and shares the historical resonance.
The riding on the Ho Chi Minh Highway is a revelation for riders who have only experienced Vietnam on Highway 1. Where Highway 1 is a congested, truck-heavy, noisy corridor between major cities, the Ho Chi Minh Highway is quieter, more scenic, and far more enjoyable on a motorcycle. The road winds through forested mountains, crosses rivers on modern bridges, and passes through small towns where the pace of life feels decades removed from the coastal cities.
The standout section runs through Quang Binh province, home to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage Site contains some of the most extraordinary cave systems on earth, including Son Doong, the largest known cave passage in the world. Paradise Cave and Phong Nha Cave are accessible for day visits and are genuinely spectacular. The riding in the surrounding area, through limestone karst landscapes and dense primary forest, is some of the best in central Vietnam.
South of Phong Nha, the highway continues through Quang Tri province, which saw some of the heaviest fighting during the American War. The DMZ (Demilitarised Zone) at the 17th parallel, the Vinh Moc tunnels, and the Khe Sanh combat base are all accessible from the highway. For riders with an interest in the conflict history, this section of the route provides sombre and powerful context.
The road quality on the Ho Chi Minh Highway is generally good, with well-maintained asphalt through most sections. Some stretches pass through construction zones or experience deterioration after heavy rain, but overall the surface is significantly better than equivalent mountain roads in the north. The highway is rideable year-round, though the stretch through Quang Binh and Quang Tri is best between February and August, before the central Vietnam rainy season begins in earnest.
Da Nang to Hoi An: The Coastal Transition
Da Nang is a modern city that most riders treat as a logistics hub rather than a destination. It has the central region's largest airport, a range of accommodation, and motorcycle rental and repair facilities. The ride from Da Nang south to Hoi An covers only about 30 kilometres along a coastal road that skirts the beach and crosses the Marble Mountains.
Hoi An is where riders stop for longer than they planned. This UNESCO-listed ancient trading port retains its original architecture, a remarkably well-preserved collection of Chinese, Japanese, and Vietnamese merchant houses and assembly halls dating from the 15th century onward. The old town is closed to motorised traffic during the day, which makes it even more pleasant to explore on foot. The lantern-lit streets at night have become one of the most photographed scenes in Vietnam, and the food, particularly the local specialities of cao lau, white rose dumplings, and mi quang, is outstanding.
Hoi An also serves as an excellent base for day rides. The coastal road south toward Tam Ky passes through fishing villages and empty beaches. The mountain roads west toward the My Son temple ruins (another UNESCO site, the remains of the Cham Hindu civilisation) wind through forested hills. And of course, the Hai Van Pass is an easy day trip from Hoi An heading north.
The Central Highlands
South and west of the coastal strip lies the Central Highlands, a vast plateau ranging from 500 to 1,500 metres elevation that extends from Kon Tum in the north to Da Lat in the south. This is Vietnam best-kept motorcycle secret, a region that offers exceptional riding through a landscape that looks and feels completely different from the rest of the country.
The highlands are cooler than the coast, with daytime temperatures typically 5 to 10 degrees below the lowlands. The vegetation shifts from tropical to pine forest and grassland. Coffee plantations stretch to the horizon, this region produces the bulk of Vietnam enormous coffee output, the world second largest after Brazil. The ethnic minority populations, primarily the Ede around Buon Ma Thuot, the M'nong in Dak Lak province, and the K'ho around Da Lat, maintain cultural traditions including distinctive longhouse architecture that is visible from the road.
The riding in the highlands revolves around sweeping curves through rolling terrain. Where northern Vietnam throws tight switchbacks and sheer drops at you, the highlands offer wider roads with longer sightlines and more forgiving surfaces. The main highways connecting Kon Tum, Pleiku, Buon Ma Thuot, and Da Lat are generally well maintained, though secondary roads to smaller villages vary in quality.
Kon Tum and Pleiku in the northern highlands are the least touristic towns in this section and offer the most authentic experience. The surrounding villages are home to Bahnar and Jarai communities with traditional communal houses (rong) that are architectural marvels, reaching heights of 15 metres or more with their soaring thatched roofs.
Buon Ma Thuot, the coffee capital of Vietnam, provides access to Dray Nur and Dray Sap waterfalls and the Yok Don National Park, which borders Cambodia. The riding around Buon Ma Thuot includes some excellent red-dirt tracks through coffee plantations and forest for riders looking for off-road variety.
Da Lat sits at 1,500 metres and functions as the southern gateway to the highlands. Originally developed by the French as a hill station retreat from the lowland heat, Da Lat has a distinctive European-influenced architecture and a climate that feels nothing like the rest of southern Vietnam. The riding around Da Lat includes the famous mountain pass to Nha Trang (either the old road through Ngoan Muc Pass or the newer highway), which provides a dramatic descent from highland cool to tropical coastal heat over about 100 kilometres.
The Coastal Route: Quy Nhon to Nha Trang
Riders heading south along the coast rather than through the highlands will pass through a stretch between Quy Nhon and Nha Trang that deserves more attention than it typically receives. The road hugs the coastline in places, passes through fishing villages, crosses small headlands, and delivers views that rival any coastal road in the world. The traffic is lighter than Highway 1 further north, and the road surface has been improved significantly in recent years.
Quy Nhon itself is an underrated stop, a real working Vietnamese city with excellent seafood, a long beach, and nearby Cham tower ruins. From Quy Nhon, the coast road south passes through Tuy Hoa and then climbs over the Ca Pass before dropping into the Nha Trang area. The Ca Pass, while less famous than Hai Van, offers genuine riding enjoyment with good curves and coastal panoramas.
Planning Your Central Vietnam Route
The most satisfying approach to central Vietnam is to combine the coast and the interior rather than choosing one or the other. A route that takes the Ho Chi Minh Highway southbound from Hue through Phong Nha, cuts to the coast at Da Nang, rides the Hai Van Pass, continues to Hoi An, then heads inland to the Central Highlands through Kon Tum before descending to the coast at Nha Trang or continuing south to Da Lat covers the full range of what this region offers. Allow eight to twelve days for this combined route to do it justice.
For connections to northern routes, see northern Vietnam motorcycle routes: Ha Giang, the Northwest Loop and beyond. For continuing south and the full Hanoi to HCMC traverse, see southern Vietnam and the Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City motorcycle route. For the complete planning guide, return to motorcycle touring Vietnam.