Listen up, bike fans! China isn’t usually the first place that pops into your head when thinking about epic motorcycle trips in Asia. Most riders head to Thailand or Vietnam instead. But man, China’s got some seriously cool riding if you can handle the headaches that come with it. From crazy city highways to mind-blowing mountain passes, this place has it all for big bike touring adventures.
The Paperwork Nightmare
First things first – China loves paperwork. Like, LOVES it. You’ll need a Chinese driving license or an International Driving Permit with translations, vehicle papers, and sometimes special permits depending on where you’re going.
Getting your own bike into China? Good luck with that. The import permits are a massive pain, which is why most riders either:
- Rent from a Chinese company
- Join a guided tour where they handle all the boring stuff
Lots of big bike touring fans just bite the bullet and go with companies like Compass Expeditions or Globe Busters. Yeah, it costs about $150-300 per day all-in, but they deal with all the red tape.
If you’re stubborn enough to go solo, set aside a few weeks to sort out paperwork in Beijing, Shanghai, or Chengdu. And bring someone who speaks Mandarin – you’ll need it.
What You’ll Be Riding
China’s weird about motorcycles. They’re actually banned in big cities like Shanghai and Beijing, but once you get out into the countryside, things loosen up.
The good news is that China’s motorcycle market has blown up recently. You can find decent bikes from:
- CFMoto 650TR/MT (650cc bikes that are pretty solid)
- Shineray X5 400 (handles rough roads okay)
- Zongshen RX3 (250cc adventure bike – not powerful but keeps going)
- BMW F800GS or R1200GS (if you’ve got serious cash and connections)
Don’t expect fancy bikes with perfect maintenance. These machines take a beating. Bring basic tools and know how to fix stuff yourself. I’ve seen guys repair broken parts with whatever they could find – you might need to get creative too.
Where To Actually Ride
China is massive – about the same size as the US but with way more extreme landscapes. Here’s what to expect in different areas:
East China: Industrial Madness
The east coast is packed with people and factories. Riding here means dealing with traffic jams and pollution. The highways are smooth but boring as hell.
If you’re passing through, focus on hitting historic sites rather than enjoying the ride itself. Areas near Hangzhou and Suzhou have some nice hills and old buildings to check out.
Central China: Farm Country
Head west and you’ll hit endless farms. Provinces like Henan, Hubei, and parts of Sichuan mix straight highways with curvy country roads cutting through rice fields.
This region is more about seeing local life than technical riding. Roads are decent but watch out for tractors, animals, and overloaded three-wheelers sharing your lane. The limestone mountains around Guilin look like something from a sci-fi movie – definitely worth checking out.
West China: Mountain Paradise
This is where big bike touring gets real. The western provinces like Yunnan, Sichuan, Qinghai, and Tibet have some of the most incredible motorcycle roads anywhere. We’re talking serious mountains with passes over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet).
The famous Sichuan-Tibet Highway (G318) is the crown jewel – 1,500 miles of mountain passes, deep valleys, and high plateaus. It’s motorcycle heaven but definitely not for beginners. You’ll deal with altitude sickness, crazy weather, and roads that can wash out without warning.
Yunnan has some easier but still amazing routes, especially around Shangri-La. The old Tea Horse Road routes take you through terraced hills and villages where tourists rarely go.
When to Go
Timing matters big time for big bike touring in China:
- Spring (April-May): Great for eastern and central China. Western mountains might still have snow. Yunnan is perfect this time of year.
- Summer (June-August): Hot and humid in the east and center. Lots of rain everywhere. But it’s the only time to ride Tibet and the high mountains.
- Fall (September-October): Best season across most of China. Not too hot, not too cold, not too wet. Plus harvest time means amazing food.
- Winter (November-March): Forget northern China and mountains completely. Southeast provinces like Guangdong are still rideable but not as scenic.
I learned this lesson when I hit surprise snow on a mountain pass in late September. Temperature dropped from pleasant to freezing in hours, and I was wearing summer gear. The mountains don’t mess around – pack for everything.
The Roads and Other Drivers
Chinese roads are weird. You can be on a perfect highway that suddenly turns into gravel without warning. The main highways (G roads) are usually good, provincial highways (S roads) are hit-or-miss, and county roads could be anything from perfect to totally wrecked.
Traffic is where it gets interesting. Chinese drivers follow their own rules. Lane markers are just suggestions. Everyone honks all the time. Vehicles squeeze into gaps that barely exist. The basic rule seems to be: if there’s space, take it; if there’s no space, make some.
For big bike touring, you need to develop a sixth sense. Weirdly, country roads can be more dangerous than cities – vehicles overtake on blind corners, farm equipment appears from nowhere, and animals could be anywhere.
Big tip: never ride at night. Between unlit vehicles, people walking in the road wearing dark clothes, and every driver using high beams all the time, it’s just asking for trouble.
Finding Food and Places to Sleep
One great thing about motorcycle touring in China: you’re rarely more than an hour from somewhere to eat or sleep. Even in the middle of nowhere, small towns pop up regularly with guesthouses (招待所 – zhāodàisuǒ) and restaurants.
In east and central China, expect to pay 150-300 yuan ($20-45) for basic rooms. Western China gets cheaper outside tourist spots, while big cities cost way more. Most places have somewhere to park your bike, even if it’s sharing space with the owner’s scooter in the lobby.
Food is a rider’s dream. Roadside places serve cheap, filling meals for 20-40 yuan ($3-6), and the food changes as you move through regions. Southern China has lighter, spicier food, while northern areas have more wheat, meat, and hot stews that hit the spot after cold riding.
Pro tip: bring a water filter. Bottled water is everywhere, but the plastic waste is crazy, and in remote areas, the “bottled” water might just be tap water anyway.
Language Problems
Let’s be real: outside cities and tourist spots, nobody speaks English. Like, zero. If you don’t speak Mandarin, you’ll rely on translation apps, pointing, and the occasional English-speaking student.
Download translation apps that work offline (Pleco is good for Chinese), and learn a few key phrases:
- “Where’s the gas station?” (哪里有加油站 – nǎlǐ yǒu jiāyóu zhàn)
- “I need a mechanic” (我需要修车 – wǒ xūyào xiū chē)
- “How much?” (多少钱 – duōshǎo qián)
- “Can I park my motorcycle safely here?” (你有安全的摩托车停车场吗 – nǐ yǒu ānquán de mótuōchē tíngchē chǎng ma)
Most useful phrase I learned: “Is this road open?” (这条路通吗 – zhè tiáo lù tōng ma). Roads close all the time without notice, especially in mountains.
Maps and Internet Stuff
Here’s where big bike touring gets tricky. Google Maps doesn’t work without a VPN, and even with one, it’s often wrong. Chinese apps like Baidu Maps and Amap are better but completely in Chinese.
Most riders use OSMAnd+ with downloaded maps or proper GPS units. I found using two devices works best: a phone with Chinese apps (need a Chinese SIM card) for cities, and a GPS for remote areas.
Internet is surprisingly good across most of China, but you need a VPN to access anything Western like Google, Facebook, or Instagram. Set this up BEFORE you arrive – you can’t download VPNs once you’re in China.
Cell coverage reaches crazy remote places, though speeds vary. Chinese SIM cards are cheap (around 100 yuan with decent data) and essential.
The Best Routes for Big Bike Touring
Here’s what makes all the hassle worthwhile:
Sichuan-Tibet Highway (G318)
Starting in Chengdu and ending in Lhasa, this is motorcycle heaven. The 2,142 km route crosses 14 mountains above 4,000m, follows massive river valleys, and passes through totally different cultures.
The toughest part is between Kangding and Litang, climbing from 2,500m to over 4,700m through endless switchbacks. The section near Xinduqiao has what many consider China’s most beautiful scenery – rolling meadows with snow-capped mountains behind.
Remember that Tibet needs extra permits, and the rules change constantly. Last time I checked, you couldn’t ride in Tibet independently – you needed a guide and special permits even with your own bike.
The Karakoram Highway
The Chinese part of this famous road runs from Kashgar to the Pakistan border at Khunjerab Pass (highest border crossing in the world at 4,693m). It cuts through where the Himalaya, Karakoram, and Tian Shan mountains all meet.
This is serious big bike touring territory – remote, high-altitude, and politically sensitive. You need extra permits for Xinjiang province, and military checkpoints are everywhere. But riding through landscapes that few people ever see, past bright blue lakes and 7,000m+ peaks, makes it all worthwhile.
Yunnan Tea Horse Road
For a less extreme but still amazing ride, try the ancient tea trading routes through Yunnan. Start from Kunming and head toward Dali, Lijiang, and eventually Shangri-La.
This area has more comfortable heights (mostly 1,500-3,500m), spectacular gorges like Tiger Leaping Gorge, and Yunnan’s amazing mix of ethnic groups. Roads range from modern highways to narrow country tracks, and the old towns make great stopping points.
Inner Mongolia’s Grasslands
If you prefer wide open spaces over mountains, Inner Mongolia is China’s version of the American West. Endless grasslands stretch forever, with occasional yurts, horse herds, and small towns.
The best route goes from Hohhot toward Xilinhot and back, with a side trip to the Kubuqi Desert if you’re feeling adventurous. Roads are generally good but completely exposed to weather – wind can be brutal, and storms show up with no warning. The upside is the incredible feeling of freedom as you cruise these empty spaces.
Keeping Your Bike Running
When it comes to fixing your bike during a big bike touring trip in China, it depends entirely on where you are:
Big eastern cities have decent motorcycle shops, usually grouped in specific areas. BMW and KTM have official dealers in Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, but they mainly sell bikes rather than fix them.
As you go west, specialized motorcycle shops become rare. General repair shops can handle basic stuff, but finding someone who understands fuel injection or electrical systems is tough. Parts for foreign bikes basically don’t exist outside major cities.
The good news: Chinese mechanics are incredibly resourceful. They’ll fabricate parts from scratch and get you moving again. The bad news: quality control is hit-or-miss, and they might not explain what they actually did to your bike.
My advice: bring essential spare parts (oil filters, spark plugs, cables, fuses, brake pads) and know how to do basic maintenance yourself. Pack tools, tire repair stuff, and a portable air compressor – you’ll need them for serious big bike touring in western China.
Gas Situation
Fuel quality varies across China. Big cities have 92, 95, and sometimes 98 octane, while rural areas might only have 92 or lower. If your bike needs high-octane fuel, plan to fill up in larger towns.
Gas stations are everywhere in eastern and central China but get scarce out west. In Tibet and parts of Xinjiang, stations might be 200-300km apart. Always fill up when you can, and maybe carry an emergency fuel bottle in remote areas.
Weird thing about Chinese gas stations: they often don’t let you fill up yourself – an attendant does it. This can be annoying when they stop at the first click instead of filling it completely like most touring riders want.
Hanging With Chinese Riders
Chinese motorcycle culture is growing fast. Big cities have riding clubs organized around specific brands or styles. If you can connect with local riders through WeChat, you’ll get amazing advice and maybe riding buddies for parts of your trip.
Even with language barriers, motorcyclists understand each other everywhere. A thumbs-up at a gas station or sharing a rainstorm creates instant connections.
Chinese riders are incredibly generous with foreigners, offering help, advice, and sometimes insisting on paying for your food or room. This hospitality is real, and accepting it graciously is part of what makes motorcycle travel so rewarding.
Extra Safety Stuff
Beyond normal motorcycle safety, China has some unique challenges for big bike touring:
Altitude sickness is a real danger in western China. Routes like the Sichuan-Tibet Highway take you above 4,000m multiple times. Take it slow, drink lots of water, and know the symptoms. Medications like Diamox can help if you’re sensitive to altitude.
Police checks happen often, especially in Tibet, Xinjiang, and border areas. Keep your papers organized and easy to access. Most police are professional but firm. Having your route info, hotel details, and permit copies ready makes these encounters easier.
Weather problems change by region. Eastern China has serious air pollution in industrial areas. Western China has intense UV radiation at altitude, sudden weather changes, and sometimes massive temperature swings between day and night.
Food and water safety matters on long rides. Stick to bottled water, hot tea, or beer (after you’re done riding, obviously). Food from busy restaurants is usually safe, but roadside stalls with questionable refrigeration can lead to stomach issues that make riding miserable.
Staying in Touch
Keeping connected with family and documenting your journey gets complicated in China:
Western social media (Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, YouTube) and even Gmail are blocked without a VPN. Chinese alternatives like WeChat, Weibo, and Baidu Cloud work but are entirely in Chinese unless you have friends to help.
Most reliable communication is WhatsApp or Telegram via VPN, though connections get spotty in remote areas. For emergencies, international roaming on your home SIM works but costs a fortune.
If you’re taking photos for your big bike touring blog, remember some areas are sensitive about photography – especially military stuff, border areas, and political gatherings. When in doubt, ask before shooting, especially pictures of people.
What It Costs
A good motorcycle tour of China isn’t cheap, but it’s more affordable than similar trips in Europe or North America. Here’s roughly what independent riders spend:
- Motorcycle rental: 300-800 yuan ($45-120) per day depending on the bike
- Gas: 7-8 yuan per liter ($4 per gallon)
- Places to sleep: 150-300 yuan ($20-45) per night for basic rooms
- Food: 80-150 yuan ($12-22) per day eating at local places
- Permits and paperwork: Very variable, but at least $200-500 for special regions
A one-month, 5,000km tour covering multiple regions might cost $3,000-5,000 all-in for a solo rider doing it independently. Guided tours with support vehicles and Western-standard hotels can easily cost double or triple that.
Planning Your China Motorcycle Adventure
If you’re serious about big bike touring in China, start planning at least six months ahead. Here’s a quick checklist:
- Decide between independent travel and a guided tour based on how much bureaucracy you can handle and whether you speak any Chinese.
- Check seasonal weather for your planned route and time it right.
- Start paperwork early – Chinese visa, International Driving Permit with Chinese translation, and special permits for restricted areas.
- Connect with riders who’ve done similar trips through forums or motorcycle tour companies.
- Plan a realistic route with backup options – roads close unexpectedly, weather changes, and plans need flexibility.
- Arrange motorcycle rental or shipping if bringing your own (the latter is complicated and expensive).
- Get your tech ready – download offline maps, translation apps, and set up a reliable VPN before entering China.
- Buy good travel insurance that specifically covers motorcycle riding at high altitudes.
The paperwork hassles of motorcycle touring in China actually work in your favor – they keep the routes less crowded than places like Thailand or Vietnam. Those who push through all the red tape get rewarded with some of the world’s most spectacular riding and experiences that still feel authentic.
Whether you’re tackling the switchbacks of the G318, cruising across the endless grasslands of Inner Mongolia, or exploring the ancient villages of Yunnan, China offers big bike touring adventures that will test your riding skills, expand your mind, and create stories you’ll be telling for decades.
Riding China isn’t easy – but that’s why it’s worth doing.